The ShoreXplorers: The Opulence of Hearst Castle – San Simeon CA [March 2, 2019]

The Neptune Pool in the clouds

High atop a hill overlooking the Pacific Ocean and the tiny town of San Simeon stands Hearst Castle. Built between 1919 and 1947 by media mogul William Randolph Hearst, the palatial estate is filled with art and antiquities from Hearst’s collection. In addition to Casa Grande, the huge main house, there are three guest cottages. There is an outdoor swimming pool called the Neptune Pool, an indoor swimming pool and tennis courts. The house has 115 rooms, including 38 bedrooms. Hollywood royalty came to stay along with some politicians and world leaders.

The house was a collaborative design between Hearst and architect Julia Morgan. It is said to be a Mediterranean Revival design, though Casa Grande looks like a Spanish church complete with steeples in the front. Morgan incorporated arches, mantles, and ceiling elements that Hearst had purchased from medieval and renaissance buildings in Europe. Somehow the hodge-podge of artifacts works together in this over-the-top extravaganza.

The Living room fireplace

Another view of the living room

Back in the day, if you were fortunate enough to be invited to La Cuesta Encatada (The Enchanted Hill) as Hearst called it, you could stay as long as you liked. You were given a lovely place to stay, and were expected to spend your time being active outdoors. Meals were eaten communally in a huge dining room, decorated with huge silver candelabras. Hearst’s father started the family fortune in silver mining.

Billiards anyone?

The dining room

Hearst Castle is now a California State Park. You have your choice of three tours, we went on the Grand Rooms tour, which is recommended for first time visitors. Other tour options are the Upstairs Suites, and the Cottages and Kitchens. The tours are not cheap at $25 per person. You are encouraged to purchase your tickets on line or by phone (for an additional charge), which makes sense because they fill up very fast.

After picking up your tickets, you can watch a 40 minute video about Hearst’s life, Julia Morgan, and the history of the Castle. The movie is complete with black and white footage of Charlie Chaplin and other movie luminaries of the time hamming it up for the photographer. From there you take a bus up the mountain to meet your tour guide. What was a grey day at sea level, was a rainy day at 1,500 feet of elevation at the house. The guide showed us the Neptune Pool, and then took us through the huge living room where you gathered before dinner, the dining room, the billiards room, and the theater. Every room had Flemish tapestries, statues, mosaics, and/or carved architectural elements that had originally graced homes and churches in Europe.

We were told that between WWI and WWII owners of these old homes and churches sold off pieces of the buildings to collectors like Hearst. While some were removed for legitimate remodeling, it was inferred that much of the pieces were sold to raise money during the difficult financial times. Hearst had deep pockets, and an insatiable appetite to collect. It made us a little sad to see these beautiful things ripped, so to speak, from where they belonged, even though they were cleverly incorporated into the design and construction of the house.