Thursday, April 18, 2019

Giants in the Snow – the Mariposa Grove, Yosemite National Park [April 14, 2019]

Giant Sequoias are, well, gigantic...



...and tall!

There was once a time when redwood trees were found all across Asia, North America and Europe.  Now only three species remain, and there are not many individual trees of each of those.  The Dawn Redwood can be found in one valley in China.  The Coast Redwood that we saw in Muir Woods National Monument near San Francisco lives in a restricted area of the California coast.  The Giant Sequoia lives on the Western slopes of the Sierra Nevada mountains in California.  Many of them are protected in national parks like Yosemite, Sequoia and Kings Canyon.  Yosemite has three groves, though the most famous is Mariposa.





Mariposa was originally protected along with Yosemite Valley in the original grant in 1864.  The creation of Yosemite National Park is so seminal for the park service that symbols of the Giant Sequoia can be found in NPS iconography – the tree on the badge, the cone on the hatbands.
No one knows when this tree fell, it was that long ago, but the wood rots very slowly




Mariposa Grove is closed during the winter due to heavy snow.  The road “opened” just two days before we were able to visit the trees.  We were warned that snow might impact our hike.  In fact, on a boardwalk early in the hike, the snow was packed by hundreds of touring feet that had visited in the two days before us, and was still 18-24 inches deep in places.  In other places throughout the grove, there was no snow at all, or just patches.  Throughout, the melted snow was running off in channels of its own devising.
The Grizzly Giant, largest tree in the grove


One of these branches is said to have a bigger diameter of any non-Sequoia tree in the grove

Water from snow melt is very important for the Giant Sequoia.  Even though they are very tall and very big around, their roots travel just under the surface of the ground, extending as much as 200 feet away from the trunk of the tree.  The water seeps into the ground, watering the roots.  The trees like to keep their feet dry during the summer, and this part of California has very dry summers.
The view of  Yosemite Valley at Tunnel View on the way to Mariposa Grove (from left to right - El Capitan, Half Dome, Bridalveil Fall)


The Mariposa Grove is located very near the Southern entrance to the park.  We were staying near the Western entrance, so drove through the park down to see them.  At one point in our drive, we stopped at the Tunnel View and looked back at the rather spectacular view of the Yosemite Valley.  The rest of the drive was along scenic mountain roads.

The base of the Grizzly Giant

When you arrive at Mariposa Grove, you park in a huge lot, and pick up a shuttle at a brand new visitors center that will take you up to the grove.  The Yosemite Conservancy spent millions of dollars removing roads that had wandered through the grove, impacting the roots (and therefore the future) of these giant trees.  We heard about it when we met some Conservancy folks at Bridalveil Falls a few days before.  Signs throughout the grove explains the science behind the decisions they made.
Periodic fires are good for the grove


A relatively small cone considering the size of the tree

The trees are not thick together like the Coast Redwoods at Muir Woods.  Coast Redwoods generate new trees from the roots of existing trees.  Giant Sequoias only generate new trees from seeds.  Interestingly, early efforts to protect the trees from fire was actually making it difficult for new trees to grow.  The tiny trees could not compete with the brush that was growing around the trees.  So, now NPS sets periodic fires to clear the underbrush and create the kind of soil that the tiny seeds love to grow in.  So, many of the trees have scorch marks on their trunks.  It is ok, the Sequoia’s are not harmed by these fires.
Just massive

Giant Sequoia are considered the most massive plant on earth.  The volume of the largest known Giant Sequoia, the General Sherman Tree in Sequoia National Park, is 52,500 cu feet.  It is 275 feet tall and 36.5 feet in diameter at the base.  The Giant Sequoia can live beyond 3,000 years!  Imagine what these trees have seen over the years!  By comparison, their cousins, the Coast Redwood are the tallest trees in the world, the largest one is 379 feet tall.  But they are slimmer than the Giant Sequoias.
The California Tunnel Tree


You can see where bark is growing to close the hole

There are several notable trees in Mariposa Grove.  The Grizzly Giant is the largest in the grove and is about 3,000 years old.  At some point, it lost its top, probably weakened during a prolonged drought.  The California Tunnel Tree had a path cut through it for tourists to drive through in a stage coach in 1895.  Interestingly, the tree has been growing bark into the gap trying to repair this terrible damage.  You can now walk through the tree.

We took a two mile hike, through a mixed wood forest with the occasional Sequoia sighting.  The first part of the hike has boardwalks or paved paths.  Past the California Tunnel Tree the path was just packed soil.  Fortunately, many of the throngs that we encountered early on, turned back at the end of the paved path, leaving us to enjoy the rest of the hike with far fewer people. 

Happy Sequoia lovers in the snow!

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