Saturday, February 29, 2020

The Ten Thousand Islands of the Everglades National Park, Everglades City, FL - February 28, 2020

Red Mangroves building an island
Red mangroves build land by sending out stabilizing aerial prop roots into shallow water that collect sand and other debris.  As the trees grow in size, so do the islands they are creating.  These mangrove islands ranging in size from one small mangrove tree to a very large island, are vital parts of the diverse and important ecosystem of the Everglades National Park.  Tiny fish and other creatures grow in the shelter of the root systems.  The islands absorb some of the energy in dangerous storm surge, protecting nearby coastal regions. 

The area is known as Ten Thousand Islands, and starts at Marco Island and runs southward on the Gulf Coast to the tip of Florida.  They are protected as part of the Everglades National Park.  While the region is named 10,000 Islands, they estimate that there are actually 13,000 to 16,000 of these important bodies of land.
Black mangrove straws
Red mangroves are not the only types of mangroves in the area.  Black mangroves can be identified by the pencil thin air straws they send up out of the mud, and white mangroves have a tiny indentation at the tip of each leaf.  The red mangrove roots are more salt resistant than the other mangroves, so you see more of them starting up new islands in the brackish water.  The water is here is brown, not from silt but from the tannin in the decaying mangrove leaves.
White mangrove leaf - see the little indentation?
We visited the area on a cold (for South Florida) and very windy day.  You access this part of the national park by boat from tiny Everglades City.  There is an NPS Visitors Center in a small temporary building.  The permanent building was damaged in Hurricane Irma in 2017.  In that storm, the 14-foot storm surge that hit the outer mangrove islands, was reduced to 8-feet by the time it got to the coastline.  That is still a lot of storm surge and quite a bit of Everglades City was damaged or washed away.
Those powerful red mangrove roots!
From the Visitors Center you can take a boat or guided kayak trip among the islands.  Given the winds and the cold, we opted for an afternoon trip in the motor boat.
Havana Cafe of the Everglades
Lunch in the shade

It was lunch time, so we drove a few miles down the road and across a bridge to the tiny island and and fishing village of Chokoloskee, to eat in the only restaurant on the island, The Havana CafĂ© of the Everglades.  The area is the stone crab capital of the world, so Russ had stone crab claws.  They only harvest the claws from the crabs and then return the crabs to the sea where they can grow new claws.  We sat outdoors under a jumble of thatched roof, shady trees and umbrellas.  Probably more perfect for a typical South Florida day instead of the chilly day we were having.

Stone crab claws

The boat tour was fabulous.  We got to see some of the mangrove islands up close, and enjoy the interesting shore birds, cormorants and pelicans.  We came across a pod of bottlenose dolphins feeding, with pelicans flying around and scooping up fish that the dolphins had scared to the surface.  As we left, the dolphins stopped eating long enough to play in the boat's wake.  Such fun.




The island is growing a sandbar
These mangroves were killed by the storm surge in 2017, but their roots still hold precious land.
Cold and windy

Friday, February 28, 2020

A New Key off Fort De Soto Park, St. Petersburg, Florida – February 25 – 27, 2020

The beach at Fort De Soto Park

From time to time we are able to return to beloved locations for another visit.  When we found ourselves in central Florida with a few extra days, we booked the LAST dog friendly campsite at one of our favorite locations: lovely, rustic, Fort De Soto Park with perfect white beaches and emerald green water.
A campsite right on the water (not ours this time, maybe next time)
Fort De Soto Park is located where Tampa Bay meets the Gulf of Mexico.  Built on a series of sand keys, it has extensive bike trails, beaches, picnic areas, an historic fort, a fabulous campground with most campsites located on the water, and a huge dog park/dog beach.
North Beach on the left and Outback Key on the right
The shoreline of Fort De Soto Park has become a lesson in shoreline erosion and build up.  Since we were here the last time (a few years ago), a new sand key has developed along the North Beach area.  Sand collected on a submerged sandbar off-shore to create a new key (island) very close to shore.  It is a short wade from the beach to the informally named Outback Key where sand has built up to be a sizable space with patches of sea oats growing at one end.  Where did the sand come from?  Erosion someplace else?  Sand disturbed by dredging the shipping channel into Tampa Bay?  A beach restoration project northwards in Clearwater?  Who knows! 
Just a short wade between the two
One park ranger predicts that if things continue to progress, the watery space between Outback Key and the North Beach will fill in with sand, eventually increasing the size of North Beach.
Reddish Egret
As a special treat,when we crossed onto the newly formed key, a rare Reddish Egret landed in the water and began its crazy dance.  While other herons and egrets regally stalk through the water looking for dinner, or shuffle their feet to stir up lunch, the Reddish Egret does a crazy dance running through the water and using the shadow of its outstretched wings to reduce glare from the water so it can see its next meal swimming by.  It is unique and fun to watch.  These interesting birds are considered threatened and are mostly found in the Gulf of Mexico.
Reddish Egret "dancing"
While we were at Fort De Soto Park, Tiki got two wonderful chances to swim, play, and roll in the sand on the dog beach.  It was quite windy and we saw kite-boarders on the East Beach.  So spectacular!
Kite-boarders
It is fitting that this return to a special place is also our return to our blog space.  It has been 9 months since we last posted on our blog in May 2019.  We made many short trips during the summer and fall of 2019, we just didn’t write about them.  Some friends and readers have asked about our blog and our travels – so we’re baaaccckkk and we’re in Florida!  Look for more blog entries to come.
Snowy Egret
Osprey
Banyon tree
Immature White Ibis losing its protective dark feathers

Our campsite - pretty nice, huh?