Tuesday, September 12, 2023

Something for Everyone – Olympic National Park, Port Angeles, WA [September 3 – 5, 2023]

 

Lovely Lake Crescent

Olympic National Park has something for everyone.  You like snow-capped mountains?  They’ve got that.  Pacific Ocean beaches?  They’ve got that, too.  Scenic mountain lakes? Yup!  Rain forests, and sub-alpine forests?  Yup and yup!  So many things to do, and so many eco-systems to explore.

 

Rialto Beach - Pacific Ocean

Located on (and encompassing much of) the Olympic Peninsula in Washington State, this National Park feels lightyears away from the multitude of metro areas surrounding Puget Sound, even though it is actually only a little over an hours drive by car plus a ferry ride away.  What a wonderful place!

 

Lake Crescent at sunrise

We camped at the Log Cabin Resort and Campground located in the northern part of the park.  The campground is situated on gorgeous Lake Crescent.  Dark green, forest covered mountains draped in clouds form a backdrop behind the lake.  It was so beautiful and peaceful we were tempted to stay at the campground the entirety of our visit and just soak in the restorative beauty.

 

We kept driving West until our feet got wet ...

However, we’ve been telling all who asked about our trip that we were “going to keep driving West until our feet got wet.”  We had to leave the lake to find the ocean.  The coastal part of the park runs for 54 miles in a thin band along most of the Pacific coast of the peninsula.  It is separated from the main section of park by National Forest, some private landholdings, a few towns, and a few Indian Reservations. This part of the coastline includes Point Alava, the westernmost point in the lower 48 states.

 

Quillayute River separated from the ocean by a berm of pebbles and a pile of driftwood

Huge bleached tree trunks line the beach



We visited Rialto Beach where the Quillayute River meets the sea.  Driftwood composed of bleached trunks of massive trees form a barrier between the river and ocean, as the river curves and fans out into a delta before merging with the sea.  The beach is formed of dark, flat, worn, oval pebbles.  Some as big as your hand, some as fine as a grain of sand.  Off the coast stand huge rock structures.  Some devoid of vegetation and some growing brave, hardy trees.

 

They grow big trees in the rain forest!

After a walk on the beach, we headed to the Hoh Rain Forest, one of two rain forests in the park, and the closest to Rialto Beach.  It is "only” 45 miles away.  The Hoh Rain Forest is one of the park's most popular areas.  It has limited parking, so there is a waiting line to drive in.  For each car that leaves, a car from the line is allowed to enter.

 

This gauge effectively shows the 2023 rain deficit

The mighty Hoh River carries ice melt from the glaciers on top of Mount Olympus to the sea.  Along its banks, this section of forest receives an average of 140 inches of rain a year.  With so much water, the trees grow really big and their branches and trunks are covered with moss.  Ferns abound on the ground.  A graph at the Visitors Center show the current rainfall in 2023 against the average rainfall.  The Hoh Rain Forest is running a deficit of rain this year. 

 

Early nurse log


We learned about nurse logs.  When a mighty tree falls, it leaves a gap in the canopy for sunlight to peak through and stimulate new growth.  Tiny plants take root along the decaying trunk, using the nutrients in the old tree to fuel their growth. 

 

Nurse log with small trees

Over time, a few of these plants grow into trees, and later a few of those trees continue to grow into mighty trees themselves. 

 



Mature trees still use nutrients from the nurse log


Until the log is all gone


If you see a straight line row of trees in the rain forest, chances are you are seeing the legacy of a nurse log from centuries ago.

 

They call this the Hall of Moss

Epiphyte lichens and moss do not hurt the host tree


The branches of some of the trees are covered with a lichens and moss.  These are epiphytes, plants that live on the tree, but do not harm it.  They absorb nutrients and moisture from the air.  They are home to miniature creatures like mites, millipedes and spiders.  If you’ve been reading this blog for a while, you might remember that we pointed out epiphytes that we saw at the Corkscrew Swamp Audubon Sanctuary in Florida.

 

Such a beautiful, wild place

Distances between places are huge here at Olympia National Park.  The Rialto Beach and the Pacific Ocean was 55 miles from where we were staying on Lake Crescent.  Our trip back to the campground from Hoh Rain Forest was 74 miles.  There is one road, 101, that circles this huge, 1 million acres (1,441 square miles) park.  Roads branch off of it into the park, but none cross the park because a glacier topped mountain occupies the center of the park.  While we think that it is enormous, Olympic is only the 13th largest park in the National Park System.

 

We could all use a quiet day on Lake Crescent

We saw enough in one day to be amazed and impressed and to know that in order to do justice to Olympic National Park, you need more time.  Including a day set aside to just sit quietly and soak in the serenity of Lake Crescent.



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