Saturday, September 30, 2023

Magnificence – Redwood State and National Parks and the North California Coast [September 18 – 21, 2023]

 

Gigantic Coastal Redwood root ball

Just Wow!!!  The Coastal Redwood trees are dramatic and beautiful.  The North California Coast is also dramatic and beautiful.  We spent 4 days exploring this beautiful part of our beautiful country.  (Do I get an award for using the word beautiful four times in the first 30 words of this blog post?)

 

Foggy Bodega Bay Marina

The rugged, foggy Pacific coast

We joined the California coast in foggy Bodega Bay.  Most of Bodega Bay is perched on a cliffside, and the restaurants have tiny parking lots.  We drove down to the marina area where there were spots big enough to accommodate us as well as seafood restaurants.  We got food for lunch, and chowders to save for dinner.  Does Bodega Bay sound familiar to you?  Alfred Hitchcock’s movie, The Birds, was filmed there.

 

Point Arena Lighthouse

Yes, those are pelicans...

We continued along the foggy coast and camped that night at the KOA near Manchester State Park, and went looking for the Port Arena lighthouse in the fog the next morning.  The setting is scenic, even in the mist.

 

Beautiful sea vista

The fog lifted on our second driving day revealing rugged sea vistas viewed from the top and sometimes from the sides of cliffs on Route 1.  The road cuts inland after Fort Bragg and winds its way through scenic second growth Redwood forests, up and down steep slopes of the Coastal Range of mountains toward Route 101 which takes you North again.  Note to RVers- this is a white-knuckle drive on a very narrow, very windy road with no shoulders and steep drop offs.  Not recommended for the faint of heart.

 


The California coast is rocky, with cliffs overlooking gravel or coarse sand beaches.  The Pacific Ocean slams huge waves against rocky outcroppings with tall sprays of water.  There is always a roar of the ocean beating against the shoreline.

 


We learned about treacherous Sneaker Waves (sometimes called Sleeper Waves or Rogue Waves) – waves of water that do not break on the shore, but instead continue in toward the beach and carry people and dogs out to sea.  Survival in the cold Pacific waters is unlikely.  There are signs on every beach warning you to never turn your back on the ocean.  Rather than swim Schooner here, we found a quiet lagoon cut off from the ocean for her to retrieve her ball from the water.

 

No that isn't an optical illusion, that tree is really that big



The Coastal Redwood trees thrive in the misty fogs of the coastline.  Warm inland air passes over the frigid ocean waters generating fog and providing precious moisture to the trees.  Scientists say that this climate pattern approximates the mild, moist climate of the Dinosaur Age, when these majestic trees grew all over North America.  Now they are confined to a narrow strip along the northern California coast.

 




Coastal Redwood Facts

·        Can live to be 2000 years old, and average 500-700 years.

·        Grow to nearly 380 feet tall (tallest tree on earth)

·        Can be 22 feet in diameter (although some are bigger)

·        Do not suffer insect damage or have killing diseases

·        Sprout from seed, stump, or off the base of the tree

·        In 1800, covered 2-million acres, about 100,000 acres remain today

 

This tree grew from another tree

These trees are growing from a stump

After the California Gold Rush played out, fortune hunters turned to logging precious Redwood trees.  In 1920, California preserved a few old growth groves of the trees in a series of state parks.  The US Congress created Redwood National Park in 1968, surrounding three of these State Parks, protecting additional trees and also an important salmon fishery.  The four parks are operated collaboratively, so you will see rangers in California State Parks and National Park Service uniforms throughout the parks.  The Redwood National and State Parks protect about 40,000 acres of these ancient forests.

 

The Newton B. Drury Parkway through Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park 


Circle Trail

The "Big Tree"




We explored the Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park.  It has a drive through the forest with parking pull-offs at trail heads.  Every tree along the road seems larger and more stately than the previous tree.  There is a Circle Trail that is well maintained and flat.  Needless to say, it is also quite popular.  It takes you by the “Big Tree” – height 286 feet and diameter 23.7 feet.  

Roots in the trail

Cathedral of Trees Trail


We turned off the Circle Trail to the aptly named Cathedral of Trees Trail.  The first thing we noticed away from the crowded trail was the quiet and serenity in this forest of enormous trees.  The narrow trail was seamed with tree roots and rocks.  Gigantic root balls and fallen tree trunks supported the life of new trees.  We were awe-struck. 

 

Yurok plank house - Sue-Meg State Park

The view from a hike in Sue-Meg State Park

We camped outside Trinidad at Sounds of the Sea RV Park, where we heard, but couldn’t see, waves splashing and sea lions barking.  The campground is near Sue-Meg State Park.  Sue-Meg and other State Parks in the area honor the Yurok people who along with two other native tribes lived in this area.  It has a reconstructed plank house Yurok village that is used today for tribal ceremonies.   It also has trails to dramatic rocks, beaches and overlooks.

 

Yum!

Trinidad harbor


Trinidad lighthouse replica

The town of Trinidad is located on a scenic little harbor.  They have a wonderful seafood restaurant, Seascapes, where we happily over-ate delicious local seafood.  It also had a tiny 24.5 foot lighthouse that used to sit on the top of a very high cliff.  The cliff is deteriorating, so a replica of the lighthouse has been brought down to the marina for safety, where it will eventually become part of a park

 


You can not reach this region by vehicle without driving on a twisty, mountain road.  When we left, we headed east on winding Route 299, which is wide, has passing lanes for slow vehicles on hills, and (most importantly) has shoulders.  After Route 1, this road was a luxury!

Overlooking the beach at Sue-Meg State Park on a windy day


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