Sunday, April 10, 2016

River of Grass – the Everglades [April 2-6, 2016]

The roots of the trees in the Hammocks breaks down the limestone creating a deeper "moat" around the island.


The Everglades are an endless, varying landscape of water and land, swamp and hardwood forest, shoreline and mangrove islands in Florida Bay.  Lovely and lonely, the Everglades are an environmental conundrum.  100 years ago people started “draining the swamp” to create agricultural land and to develop places for people to live.  They diverted life-giving water that had flowed to the Everglades from Lake Okeechobee, not understanding the environmental importance of the area.  In 1947 the Everglades were made into a National Park, and efforts continue today to protect this unique and valuable resource from encroachment and poisoning by agriculture and development.
Our campsite

We stayed at the campground at Flamingo, 38 miles from the park entrance, along the beautiful Florida Bay coast.  Each campsite has electricity, and there is a central tap to visit when you need to take more water into your holding tanks.  While we were there, the campground went from being somewhat full to practically empty.  Just a few weeks before, every site had been full.  That is the transition from “winter” to “summer” here.
Florida Bay with mangrove keys


Mangrove

Florida Bay is dotted with large and small mangrove islands or keys.  We were able to go kayaking there on Tuesday.  We scooted in and out of tiny keys created by the roots of mangrove plants.  Eventually we arrived at a larger key, which we kayaked around.  At one point, all we could see was the Gulf of Mexico.  So exciting!  The water was very calm, and the sky sunny and dotted with shade providing fluffy clouds.
Watta View!



Russ

We had been told by a Park Ranger about a back country kayak trail that we decided not to take, because April is the start of mating season for the alligators.  We were told that we might encounter “hissing” alligators on the paddle.  We had a good laugh later when we saw a new sign at the Marina store  warning paddlers to avoid the alligators on that particular kayak trail, as they had recently gotten quite territorial.


Along the landward side of the coastline are areas of Coastal Prairie.  During hurricanes, limey mud called marl from the bottom of Florida Bay and salt water may be moved miles up onto the land, killing off Mangrove trees and creating a salty, dry habitat suitable only for specialized plants.  Very interesting!  We had an area of Coastal Prairie near to our campground.
Coastal Prairie
 

Dana taking the picture of the Coastal Prairie

As we left on Wednesday, we stopped at some of the hikes along the road through the park.  We had rain, so some of these photos are a bit dark and damp looking.
Hammock rising out of the swamp
 


Dense vegetation in the hammock

The Mahogany Hammock is a densely forested island of hardwood trees set in the middle of the sea of grass.  Hammock comes from the Seminole Indian word for “shaded place”, and this hammock is certainly shaded.  In fact, it was pouring rain in the parking lot, and barely sprinkling inside the hammock.  Among the trees, venerable mahoganies.
Mahogany tree

Pa-Hay-Okee means “grassy waters”, again from the language of the Seminole.  You can get an impressive view, at an overlook by that name, of the vast grassy waters that we think of as the Everglades.  “Domes” of cypress trees and hardwood hammocks dot the horizon of this saw grass prairie.
Miles and miles of saw grass and water

Over the time of our visit, we ran into quite a few visitors from other countries (including a French family who were charmed by Dana’s efforts to speak with them), because the Everglades are unique and marvelous and people travel long distances to visit it.  The Everglades should be on every American’s bucket list, they are (after all) located on our own continent.  They are a study in contrast - fragile and immense.   To visit them is to appreciate what America once was, and the responsibility we have to protect these special places.   
Delicate flowers in this harsh landscape


The Buttonwood canal connects Flamingo with interior bodies of water for boaters

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