Tuesday, April 9, 2024

The Upper Florida Keys – Biscayne National Park and Key Largo, Florida [March 24 – 31, 2024]

 







When you think of the chain of Florida Keys, you think of Key Largo as the “First Key”, though it is actually just the first key you can drive to.  North of Key Largo are keys that are part of the chain, and that are protected as part of Biscayne National Park.

 

Biscayne National Park

Biscayne National Park is located just a few miles south of the Miami.  The park encompasses mangrove forests protecting the shoreline; the fertile sea grass beds of Biscayne Bay; a string of keys rich with plants, insects and birds; and coral reefs bright with colorful tropical fish.  95% of the park is water.  There are even a few ship wrecks thrown in as well.

 

Boardwalk along Biscayne Bay

You really need a boat to visit this beautiful national park.  We visited during Spring Break, and families had reserved all of the spots on the boat, snorkeling, and kayak tours that are offered by the Biscayne National Park Institute.  It was also too windy to launch our kayaks.  So, we enjoyed walking along the park nature trail/boardwalk along the edge of Biscayne Bay, and visiting the visitors center.

 

Green Heron hiding in the mangroves

We learned that an “island” is a body of land surrounded by water that is created by geological processes.  A “key” is a body of land surrounded by water that is created by biological processes.  Keys are ancient coral reefs exposed by a drop in sea level long ago. 

 

Cape Florida Lighthouse, Key Biscayne

Key Biscayne sits to the North of Biscayne Bay.  At the southern tip of Key Biscayne is Cape Florida and a beautiful lighthouse.  One day, we braved Miami traffic and drove to Key Biscayne.  History buffs might remember Key Biscayne was the location of President Nixon’s “Winter White House.”  You enter Key Biscayne from the north, driving first through Crandon Regional Park.  Bill Baggs Cape Florida State Park is on the southern part of the key.  Between the two parks is the tiny, lovely, ritzy town of Key Biscayne.

 

Everglades Alligator

Such a pretty smile...

We camped in the town of Homestead, Florida (history buffs might remember it from Hurricane Andrew).  Key Biscayne National Park is an 8-mile drive eastward from there through agricultural fields primarily growing nursery trees.  11 miles to the west is the entrance to Everglades National Park.  Given that it was too windy to be on the water, we made our third visit to the glorious Everglades, saw a wonderful Ranger Talk, and walked by a lazy alligator dozing in the sun alongside the path.  It is such a beautiful and immense “River of Grass”.  Always worth a visit.

 


River of Grass - The Everglades

30 miles or so to the south is Key Largo.  As you drive further along the Keys beyond Key Largo, toward Key West, the Keys become more natural and less populated.  Key Largo is the “First Key” and a very busy place.  John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park in Key Largo protects the southern section of the same coral reef system as Key Biscayne National Park.  Once again, families on Spring Break crowded the State Park with lines of cars waiting along the highway to enter the park.  It was (again) too windy to kayak.  So, we had a leisurely few days, hung out at our lovely Bougainvillea-lined campsite, enjoyed the mild temperatures, swam in the campground pool, and rode our bicycles to lunch at a Cuban restaurant. 

 

Pretty, pretty campsite in Key Largo

When the winds finally diminished on Easter Sunday, we jumped on a snorkel tour boat for a lovely snorkel along a coral reef called Hen and Chickens.  We saw many of our favorite tropical fish.  Visibility was poor, so our photos are not really suitable for sharing.  Sorry. 

 

"Giant stride" entry to snorkel




We did see some of the “bleached coral” that we had heard about.  Tiny cells called zooxanthellae live with the coral polyps.  They help the polyps survive by providing food from photosynthesis.  The polyps in turn protect the zooxanthellae.  When sea water gets too hot, the zooxanthellae can die, and then the coral polyps die without them.  According to our snorkel boat First Mate, the water in the Keys got up to 100 degrees last summer, causing some of the zooxanthellae to perish.  The result is white sections on the coral heads where the polyps have died.  While we had seen photos of this phenomenon, it was tough to process seeing it “in person”.

White patches are "coral bleaching"

The water behind us is Biscayne National Park




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