Wednesday, July 4, 2018

Lighthouses and Lobsters (and Mussels and Oysters…) – Prince Edward Island [June 26 – July 4, 2018]



Nothing says that you are at the ocean like beautiful lighthouses and yummy seafood, so we decided to talk about both in this last post from PEI.
Even though we used this photo in an earlier post, it is so perfectly PEI that we just had to use it again...
There are 63 lighthouses and rangelight buildings in PEI, of which about 37 are still active.  The Province calculates that to be a density of one lighthouse for every 34 square miles, the highest concentration of lighthouses in North America.  They are everywhere, in potato fields, in community parks and at the furthest reaches of the island.  We saw about 7 lighthouses and were only able to climb up in one of them.
North Cape Lighthouse
The lighthouse on North Cape is still a working lighthouse and is not open to the public.  This treacherous cape has a 1.5 mile rock reef, the longest rock reef in North America. Even though we could not climb it, we were able to admire the structure and take pictures.
Tignish Run Lighthouse
A little ways South, the decommissioned Tignish Run Lighthouse has been moved from its original “working” location to the tiny seaside community of Tignish Shore, where it is the centerpiece of a community oceanside park.

Malpeque Outer Rangelight (Back) - the one in the potato field
The Malpeque Outer Rangelight (Back) is located in a potato field.  It’s (Front) partner is located on private property directly on the coast.  Mariners would line up these two lights or structures (in daytime) in order to locate the mouth of Malpeque Bay.  This structure is near the entrance to our campground.
West Point Lighthouse
We were able to climb up the West Point lighthouse, which is still working.  At 67 feet 8 inches, it is taller than the other lighthouses that we saw.  The view from the top was spectacular.  It is located in a Provincial Park and the lighthouse keepers quarters have been turned into guest rooms, as part of a small hotel that was added to the structure.  Wouldn’t that be a fun place to stay?

Under these buoys are suspended "socks" full of growing mussels
Aquaculture is very big in PEI.  Every bay and estuary has oyster cages or mussel structures, growing the seafood for which they are famous.  The food we know as PEI Mussels are called Blue Mussels on PEI.  In the Spring, mussel farmers hang bits of rope in the water of the protected and shallow bays.  The adult mussels “spat” and the microscopic spat stick to what ever they touch first, like rope.  They grow, and when they are about a half inch long, they are stripped from the rope and put into long mesh tubes called socks (think about the plastic net bags your oranges might come in), and suspended from horizontal lines supported on the surface with buoys.  The mussels grow through the openings in the mesh and grow on the outside of the socks into the large loveliness that might make its way to your table.  Interestingly, the whole process takes 12-18 months, and the mussels are not harvested until a wholesaler has purchased them.  They are harvested year-round, even in the winter when the ice is cut with chain saws.

Malpeque Oyster cages

Malpeque Oysters were originally found in Malpeque Bay but are now grown in aquaculture cages all around the island.  They are an interesting animal.  They became almost extinct from a cancer, but somehow, without intervention from humans, were able to conquer the cancer.  The population is now cancer free and being studied by scientists.
Lobster pots
Lobsters are harvested in the Gulf of St. Lawrence (to the North of the island) May- June 30 and in the Northumberland Strait (to the South of the island) August – October.  This allows the different populations to recover from the fishing.  We observed the fisher folk collecting their lobster traps on June 30, and then saw the traps neatly stacked on the wharf waiting until next season.

Yup, that is our tiny stove, cooking a yummy meal...
With this great abundance of seafood, we had many delicious, salty meals.  Mussels are so inexpensive, that they were included in one salad bar as “all you can eat” and were served at a social event at the campground for $5/an overflowing plate.

Ta da

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