Thursday, March 3, 2016

Lots of History and Lots of Walking in Downtown Charleston SC [March 3, 2016]



Today was devoted to downtown Charleston.  Lots-a walking - my fitbit recorded 15,000+ steps.

We are staying in the James Island County Park Campground just across the Ashley River from downtown Charleston.  For $10/person they will shuttle you over to the Visitors Center.  From there you can catch a free trolley around town, or set off on foot.  We initially took the trolley south down King Street, but figured out pretty quickly that we walk faster and if we were walking we wouldn’t miss the wonderful sights along the way.

Our first destination was Legare Street, south of Broad, in the most historic (read expensive), and lovingly restored parts of town.  We were in search of “single houses” and wrought iron gates.  Charleston has a unique architectural style called the single house.  The single house is only one room wide as it faces the street.  From the street you see 2 windows upstairs, and 2 windows and a door downstairs.  The door looks like your and my front door, but actually leads on to an open air porch that extends the length of the house.  The rest of the rooms open up on to the porch all the way back to the rear of the house.  The same with upstairs. (There are pictures of what this looks like at the end of this post!)

The porches face gardens and the gardens are secured from the street by fences and gates.  Oftentimes the gates are made of wrought iron.  Long ago I read that the wrought iron work was done by free men of color.  Each family had their unique design and every gate made by that family followed that design.  The skill and the design were passed from generation to generation.  That said, in two trips to Charleston spent walking up and down these streets looking at wrought iron work, I’ve never seen a duplicate gate.  So maybe the story isn’t true, but it is a great story.

We followed Legare down to the Battery and walked along the sea wall admiring the view, the cannons in the park and the enormous houses along the Battery.  We learned later that when the settlers moved over from Charles Town Landing around 1680, this part of the peninsula was all wetland.  It wasn’t filled in and secured with a sea wall until the 1750's. The stately mansions that grace the Battery were built after that.

We walked back up East Bay Street, and along the City Market.  We had a seafood lunch at Hyman’s on Meeting Street and then headed south again.  This time we followed a walking tour that we had ripped out of the AAA South Carolina Tour Book.  We made an interesting stop at the Powder Magazine (79 Cumberland St.)  To finish off the day, we took a tour of the Heyward-Washington House at 87 Church St.  The house was built in 1772 for Thomas Heyward, who later went on to sign the Declaration of Independence.  In 1791 George Washington was a guest there, hence the name of the house.  The tour was interesting with a heavy emphasis on antique furniture that had been built in Charleston.  Of special interest to Dana was that the house was briefly the home of the Grimke family (the daughters were famous abolitionists whose story was told in Invention of Wings), though they moved into a different house when Sarah was 11, before Angelina was born.

The Battery
Following our tour, we hoofed it back to Lagare to walk back to where we would catch our shuttle home.  We liked walking along less traveled streets.  We passed through the College of Charleston campus.  As we got near the Visitors Center, we stopped at Republic Ice Cream for some extremely tasty, reasonably priced, South Carolina produced ice cream.  Why not, we walked 15,000+ steps!

Hope you enjoy the photos!  




Famous Battery Seawall
Mansion at the End of the Battery
Another Battery Mansion
Thought This House Was Pretty
Heyward-Washington House
These Cobblestones Came from England as Ballast in Ships
A Row of Single Houses
Close Up of Single House Door
Good View of a Single House Porches

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