Dinosaur Bones and Petroglyphs - Dinosaur National Monument, Utah [October 2 – 5, 2023]

Pieces of a stegosaurus, still in the stone

Some bones you can touch

The main attraction at Dinosaur National Monument is what is believed to be the largest trove of dinosaur bones in North America with specimens from over half of the species of dinosaurs thought to have roamed on this continent 150 million years ago, during the Jurassic Period.  Some of the skeletons are nearly complete, including fragile skulls.  You can stand next to (and sometimes touch) a wall of the quarry still containing bones that have not been removed from the rock.

 

Petroglyphs of people and big horn sheep

But wait, there’s more…  1,000 year old petroglyphs and pictographs from ancient people of the Fremont Culture (named for the Fremont River in Southern Utah).  You can drive by or hike up to these intricate works of art.

 

Ancient rocks

There’s still more…  geological history spanning 1.1 billion years, with rocks as old as the oldest rocks in the Grand Canyon.  The upheaval of the strata is everywhere, colorful, beautiful, textured, rounded, slanted, eroded.

 

Apatosaurus tibia (top) and fibula (bottom)

As the story goes, in 1909 Earl Douglass, a paleontologist with the Carnegie Institute in Chicago was wandering around an outcropping of Morrison Formation stone looking for fossils.  He knew that dinosaur fossils could be found in a Morrison layer, but he hadn’t had a lot of luck so far that summer.  Then, he noticed a fossilized bone sticking out of the dirt.  When he dug to uncover it, he found it was attached to 7 others.  With further digging he found these 7 vertebrae were attached to other bones which made the immense skeleton of an Apatosaurus.  He was supposed to return home that evening after a summer of digging.  Instead, he stayed on and continued to dig for 20 more years.

 

Apatosaurus scapula (top) and femur (underneath), Diplodocus scapula (across)

The many complete skeletons that have been found here are now in major museum collections (there are two in the Smithsonian Institution).  Just six years later, in 1915, President Woodrow Wilson protected 80 acres including the dinosaur quarry as a National Monument.  President Franklin Roosevelt added 200,000 acres in 1938, protecting adjacent rivers and canyonlands.  The park is located in Utah and Colorado.

 

Dinosaur Quarry building, the part of hill that used to be where the building stands has been excavated and the dinosaur bones removed.

The Dinosaur Quarry is located in a large building, with the quarry as one wall of the building.  You can purchase a guide book for $1.00 with drawings of sections of the quarry wall labeling the bones that have been identified.  Not all of the bones have been identified in the guide, which is also pretty interesting.  You could almost imagine what it would be like to be a paleontologist on this dig.

 

Stegosaurus bones, the darkest bone is a "plate" that stuck up off the back of the animal.

During the Jurassic time, there was a river here.  Dinosaurs died along the river, and their bodies/skeletons were washed downstream when the river flooded.  The heaping jumble of bones was covered by silt and dirt.  The organic elements of the bones were replaced by minerals (fossilization), and the silt and dirt were compressed into stone.  More layers of stone were built on top of the dino graveyard.  During eras of geological upheaval, these layers tilted up and sometimes sideways.  Some of the exposed layers eroded, making the fossilized bones underneath easier to find.

 

We spent hours in the Dinosaur Quarry, looking at (well) bones.  A femur from a Camarasaurus here.  Most of a Stegosaurus over there.  That thing is a Diplodocus humerus.  There is an Apatosaurus scapula.  Wonder who those ribs are from...  You walk up a ramp as you enter the building and look at bones along the upper sections of the quarry side.  Then you go downstairs, and walk along the ground level.  You can actually touch the bones at that level. 

 

Vertebrae bones on a cliff, with helpful arrow pointing them out

Near the Quarry is the Fossil Discovery Trail.  Along the trail you can see unexcavated fossil bones, including a set of fossil vertebrae up the cliff.  Even though these and other fossils are helpfully marked by painted white arrows, it is pretty exciting to see fossils ”in the wild” like that.

 

How many lizard petroglyphs do you see?

A closer view

Petroglyphs are images pecked out of the rock.  Pictographs are images painted onto the rock with a pigment.  We saw many petroglyphs here, a few with pigment painted on top of them.  Park resources say that both kinds of images can be found in the park.  They are considered to be roughly 1,000 years old.

 

They call this petroglyph The Fluteplayer

Another view

The images are attributed to the Fremont People, a culture that lived in what we today know as Utah and parts of surrounding States.  They are named for the Fremont River in Utah where the culture was first documented by archeologists.  Petroglyphs and pictographs can be found throughout the region where the Fremont People lived.  The petroglyphs can be seen on the Tilted Rocks Driving Tour.  You can buy a guide for $1.00.

 

The lizards and The Flute Player and other petroglyphs are on this cliff face - can you see them?

The view down from beside the petroglyphs

Scientists aren’t really sure of the purpose of the images.  Are they part of a religious expression?  Are they recording a story?  Are they identifying something significant?  What we do know is that the petroglyphs took a long time to create, so the artists who created them had the discretionary time to do so.  The 6-foot long lizard high on a cliff probably took 2 months to peck out of the rock.

 

Many of the petroglyphs seem to be images of people.  There are big horned sheep and lizards - lots of lizards.  One petroglyph looks like a flute player.

 

The Green River

Around all of this, are stunning rounded hills with millennia of strata rolling along them.  Split Mountain is roughly eroded with spikey crags.  The Green and Yampa Rivers flow through this landscape.  If you watched the Ken Burns documentary on the National Parks, you might remember that in the 1950s there was an unsuccessful plan to build a dam at Echo Park in the Colorado side of the park and flood the beautiful canyons there. 

 

Layers erode at different rates

'Turtle Rock' is made of the same Entrada Sandstone as you find at Arches National Park

Butch Cassidy, other outlaws, including a group known as “The Wild Bunch,” and cattle rustlers hid out here.  The notorious, backcountry Outlaw Trail linking Montana to New Mexico drove through this region.  The outlaws befriended local folks, including the Bassett family.  Somehow, the Bassett’s cattle never got stolen. 

 

One Bassett daughter, Josie, later in life moved to the base of Split Mountain and set up an isolated homestead in 1914 where she lived until she died at 89.  The location of her ranch is part of the park, and her cabin is currently being restored.  She corralled her livestock in a box canyon, just fencing the opening and using the 3 steep canyon walls to confine her animals.  She avoided water rights issues by digging ponds and dams to contain stream water on her property.  Her ingenuity, hard work, and challenges are examples of the experiences of early pioneers.

 

Split Mountain

Dinosaur National Monument did not have many visitors while we were there.  It is far away from towns and Interstate highways, and worth the effort to get there.  We camped in Outlaw Trail RV Park, near the entrance road into the park.

Elephant Toes Butte

Thatsa Lotta Lava - Lava Beds National Monument, Tulelake, California [September 25-26, 2023]

 

Not all volcanoes are tall, pointy, conical mountains.  Shield volcanoes are generally flat, with gentle sloping sides.  There are lots of shield volcanoes in the world, Mauna Loa and Kilauea in Hawaii are two well-known and very active ones.  Medicine Lake volcano in Northeast California is the largest volcano, by area, in the Cascade Range, but you may not have heard of it before.

 

Acres and acres of lava

The Medicine Lake volcano has been active for 500,000 years.  While composite (pointy mountain) volcanoes have explosive eruptions, shield volcanoes leak lava through surface vents.  Some of the resulting lava flows and empty lava tubes are preserved in Lava Beds National Monument.

 

Lava Beds National Monument is in the middle of nowhere.  The nearest town, Tulelake, is a tiny crossroads that sits on the shores of Tule Lake.  Parts of Tule Lake itself have been drained and reclaimed as agricultural land. 

 

Because of the ways the roads run around there, most people enter the park through the Northwest or Northeast entrances.  The Visitor Center is in the Southern part of the park.  We were surprised as we drove past acres and acres of hardened lava.  Signs at overlooks explain what you are seeing.  Most of the lava erupted 30,000 – 40,000 years ago.  There is a flow in the Monument from as recent as 1,200 years ago.  Because of recent eruptions, and the potential of more, Medicine Lake is considered a dormant volcano.

 

Lava builds up inside the tube with each new batch of lava

Molten lava flows to the surface through lava tubes.  As lava erupts through a vent, the lava along the outside edges of the flow hardens first, creating a tube.  Subsequent flows add layers to the inside of the tube, much like the layers of an onion.  Sometimes, a chunk of a layer will pull off with the force of the flow leaving an uneven indentation on the surface of the tube.  After the last of the lava has left the tube, liquid lava might harden as it drips from the ceiling creating lavacicles.  (Does that sound to you like geologists might have a sense of humor?)

Lavacicles

 

Many of the lava tubes are now open as caves to explore.  You get instructions on how to decontaminate any gear or apparel that have previously been in a cave to stop the spread of White Nose Syndrome in bats.

 

Descending into Mushpost Cave

This is what the inside of a lava tube looks like

We went in the Mushpot Cave.  It has lighting inside it, and signs explaining the features that you are seeing.  The other caves are not as civilized, but you can borrow flashlights from the Visitor Center. 

 

Schonchin Butte is a cinder cone

The flat desert is dotted with rounded hills known as cinder cones.  Highly pressurized molten lava explodes upward, cools mid-air, then falls back to the earth as rocks, which eventually cover the vent.  Then fluid lava leaks along the base of the pile, moving the rocks and forming a rounded cone.  Folks in the area call them buttes.  The Schonchin Butte is quite prominent in the park.

 

Captain Jack's Stronghold

This area was the land of the Modoc native people for 10,000 years.  As white settlers claimed ancestral Modoc land, conflicts arose.  The Modoc reluctantly signed a treaty and were relocated to the Klamath Reservation to the North in Oregon.  Conditions there were terrible, so a group of Modoc under the leadership of Kientpoos (known as Captain Jack by the white settlers) returned to their ancestral lands, wanting a reservation there.  

Captain Jack's Stronghold

They fled to a lava stronghold where warriors, women and children set up a makeshift community and held off US Army forces.  Eventually, the army cut off their access to water in the lake and, half-starved, the Modoc were forced to surrender.  Kientpoos was executed.  The war was so costly to the US Army, that they almost eradicated all of the Modoc people afterwards.

A nice welcome

 

Our morning neighbors

We camped that night in the campground inside the Monument.  There was a brief, gentle misty rain, and we were greeted by a rainbow.  The next morning we saw a herd of mule deer grazing at the empty campsite across the street from ours.

There are three kinds of lava

A'a 

Pahoehoe 

Obsidian